Kanazawa is the city that World War II forgot to bomb — which means its samurai streets, geisha districts and merchant houses are still standing, in wood and tile, exactly as they were. It is small enough to walk across in a morning and rich enough to fill a week. The locals call it 'Little Kyoto', but Kanazawa is its own thing — quieter, more crafted, slightly more eccentric.
Ninety-nine per cent of Japan's gold leaf is made here. Eat it on ice cream, watch craftsmen beat it into sheets, paint your own chopsticks with it. This is also home to one of the country's three great gardens, one of its most photographed contemporary art museums, and the freshest fish market north of Kyoto — Omicho, one minute from your front door.
Kanazawa craft traditions in every detail. Kenroku-en, D.T. Suzuki Museum, Higashi Chaya District all walkable.
teamLab, Ghibli, museums, light and big ideas.
Famous for Leandro Erlich's 'Swimming Pool' — you look up at people standing in it from below. James Turrell's blue-sky room is here too. Surprisingly playful for a contemporary museum.
A small museum dedicated to the Zen philosopher, designed by Yoshio Taniguchi. The reflective Mirror Pool is one of the most photographed quiet spaces in Japan.
Apply real gold leaf to chopsticks, plates or postcards. Hakuza in Higashi Chaya runs short hands-on workshops you can book on the day.
Character stores, vintage finds, stationery, gifts.
Sixty stalls selling crab, snow-white scallops, sea urchin, fruit so perfect it looks fake. One minute from the hotel. Best at 10am for breakfast donburi.
Wandering the old geisha district you'll pass gold-leaf studios, Kutani porcelain shops, lacquerware, washi paper. Buy small — everything is precious.
Animal cafés, photo booths, things that make no sense anywhere else.
A vanilla soft-serve, wrapped in a single whole sheet of edible 24-carat gold. Yes, you have to. Yes, take the photo.
Higashi Chaya is the perfect backdrop for a kimono walk — quieter than Kyoto's Gion, and the autumn light on the wooden lattices is unreal.
Tower Records, Disk Union, vinyl basements, jazz cafés.
Tiny long-running jazz bar in Korinbo. Vinyl-only. The owner will play you a record if you ask politely.
Takoyaki, matcha, ramen, parfaits, market breakfasts.
A bowl of rice topped with whatever was best at the market that morning. Inside Omicho — point to what looks good.
Both Higashi Chaya tea-houses are open to visit. Kaikaro is the more atmospheric — gold-painted ceilings, red-lacquered staircase.
Temples, gardens, viewpoints, neighbourhoods to wander.
One of Japan's three great gardens. Mid-October is just before the maples turn fully red — quieter than the November rush but still beautiful. Pay the small extra for Seisonkaku Villa next door.
Earthen walls, narrow lanes and the Nomura family samurai residence with its inner garden. Best in late afternoon when most tour groups have left.